First few days in Kathmandu

June 5, 2011

Kopan Monastery. Colorful prayer flags dance in the wind and the sound of chanting floats over to the main temple.  I am sitting on the steps watching tiny monks with shaved heads; they are probably about 7 years old.  My friend Megan is staying here on a retreat so I walked up the large hill this morning at 6 am to surprise her.  It was a beautiful walk, and along the way I chatted with locals, drank delicious milk chai (it is pronounced cheeya here), and took photos of the sweeping views. I met my new friend this morning, a sweet old man with missing front teeth.  He was so excited to speak English that he talked for twenty minutes without waiting for my response.  I couldn’t make out any of his words except for “Nepal, You!” so I just smiled along.  Something about him reminded me of my dad.  I think it’s the gentleness that I now associate with Nepalis in general.

The backdrop here is a dream.  Giant Himalayas, rolling green hills with scattered homes, prayer flags flowing in the wind everywhere you look, smiling monks.  At the bottom of this hill is the rest of Kathmandu: narrow streets with bustling traffic, honking cars and motorcycles, ladies in bright saris and kurta suluwars, marigold-laden temples and various wandering animals.  After the monastery, a taxi driver approached me to offer a ride. My involuntary side-to-side head bobbing (a remnant of India I believe) resulted in my accepting a 300-rupee taxi ride.  I was trying to shake my head "no," but before I knew it, I had said "yes."  Ah, the power of the head bob! Anyway, I couldn't back out after my nonverbal agreement, so in I went into the taxi.  

I am not quite sure how to describe the kindness of Nepali people. It is unlike anything I have ever come across.  Hospitality is taken very seriously here, and my Nepali friends have not allowed me to pay for much since my arrival.  To say that they are kind is a gross understatement.  A young, powerful and dedicated community of Nepali social justice activists have set me up with housing, taken me around the city, introduced me to influential activists and fed me amazing food (thank you to Chris and “Dr. Dee” at IPJ for introducing me to them!).  My new friends come from Today’s Youth Asia (TYA), a non-profit organization that provides opportunities to youth in media training, leadership and peacemaking.  TYA also produces and runs a live television program called “Power Talks,” where my (apparently famous) friend Santosh Shah interviews diplomats and dignitaries.  Last week he interviewed the US Ambassador to Nepal and asked him about sex trafficking (that episode, by the way, has now been blocked by the government-owned TV station). *

* I have learned that bribery and corruption is widespread at the government level here.  Several interviews with survivors of exploitation have also confirmed that the biggest patrons to cabin restaurants and massage parlors (places where girls are sexually exploited) are the police. More on this later.

I am staying in a sweet room attached to a hospitality college and love it so much.  My window overlooks corn fields and a beautiful view of the mountains.  Khem, the driving force behind this school, and his wife Prabha have been like family.  They have yet to accept money from me for staying here. One of my favorite memories is a candlit dinner on their balcony while looking at the Kathmandu valley and talking about travels and differences in culture.